Vietnam is unrecognisable from when I first visited 30 years ago. It was then a country that had just ended a protracted war, complete with crippling sanctions imposed on it by the United States. Today, there is renewed optimism, the country is rapidly developing, and destinations such as Danang now receive international flights. Golf is an outward sign of this growth, and with several international championship courses, this Central Vietnamese beach destination deserves its title as Vietnam’s golf coast.
Montgomerie Links, just south of Danang, pioneered the development of golf in Central Vietnam. Since the first nine holes opened in 2008, the course has received accolades not normally bestowed on such youthful courses. Fully opened in 2010, the complex has been awarded the ‘2011 Best Leisure Development in Vietnam’ (Asia Pacific Property Awards), ‘2009 Best New Course in Vietnam’ (Vietnam Golf Magazine), ‘2009 Best Par Five in Vietnam, 12th hole, 527 yards’ (Vietnam Golf Magazine), and ‘2009 Nominated Best New Course in Asia’ (Asian Golf Monthly). Its most recent accolade was for ‘One of Asia’s 10 Most Elite Golf Courses’ (Forbes Travel). The awards keep rolling in too.
In the 1960s, Danang was a base for the United States Air Force, and B-52 bombers flew missions into North Vietnam. More munitions were dropped on Vietnam than in Europe during the Second World War. For most Vietnamese, the war (referred to in Vietnam as the American War) has been mostly forgotten, and Danang International Airport is now the focus for tourist arrivals rather than the military. Tourists arrive and fan out to China Beach and Hoi An to the south and the Hai Van Pass, Lang Co, and Hué to the north.
LINKS TO GOLF
Montgomerie Links has been developed by Indochina Land and includes onsite hotel and pool villa accommodation. Designed by Scotsman Colin ‘Monty’ Montgomerie, the course closely follows the design philosophy of working closely with the site’s natural landforms. Danang is known for its sandy soil, wind-blown dunes, and vegetation of mostly wispy casaurina trees. Bunkers of golden sand are a feature of this course that caters to players of all abilities.
Located along Ha My Beach, this 7,200-yard par 72 (ranging from 7,100 yards from tournament tees to 5,089 yards for ladies) links course is a personal favourite for Montgomerie. Its Sea Isle Supreme Paspalum grass is perfect for salty conditions and plays very smoothly. With some 110 bunkers (including 17 on the signature 12th), some golfers may think they’re playing along the beach rather than on a golf green.
Three standout holes are the third, fourth, and the 12th. The fourth is the course’s shortest par four (321 yards), which is played from an elevated tee to a hidden landing area. Water on the right adds to the challenge, and a temple is a reminder of the course being located in a country that is predominantly Buddhist.
The par-three, fifth hole is a short water carry but with a receptive green. While the hole is guarded by a bunker to the front, most golfers shouldn’t have too much difficulty, although long shots will end up in the casuarina-lined dune to the rear. Wayward shots could also end up in the water.
The hole most golfers will enjoy is the signature 12th, despite possibly cursing one or more of the spacedout bunkers. This par five hole requires three strategically placed shots onto the green and then careful putting on the sloping green.
EXCELLENT FACILITIES
Facilities at the course are comprehensive, with kiosks on holes six and 14. Birdies Restaurant and Bar serves Vietnamese, Asian, and Western favourites, and can arrange halal food with prior notice. While Vietnamese food isn’t as spicy as most other Asian cuisines, chilli on the side is always possible. The cuisine of Central Vietnam is spicier and saltier than the rest of Vietnam. The staple noodle soup called pho is served everywhere, and a steaming bowl costs just a few ringgit. The beer they drink at game’s end is Beer Larue.
Good banquet facilities for up to 400 guests are located above the restaurant. A driving range of 345 yards with 30 covered bays includes five target greens, and the golf academy has features such as video swing analysis.
While accommodation is also provided beside the course at Montgomery Links Hotel and Villa, it’s my recommendation you play golf here and stay closer to the heritage action in Hoi An.
HERITAGE TO THE WORLD
Danang is within driving distance of three UNESCO World Heritage Sites (Hoi An, Hué, and My Son Sanctuary). Montgomerie Links is located on the beachside route to the very popular port town of Hoi An.
Japanese merchants set up trading houses in Hoi An in the mid16th century, and the port became known as a Japanese town. The most important historic site in Hoi An is the covered Japanese bridge that was built in the 1590s and has just been renovated.
The historic port is the big tourist attraction in this part of Vietnam. What is one of the best-preserved ports in the region has some similarities with Melaka, as both are UNESCO World Heritage Sites and were previously strategic trading ports.
In Hoi An, some 800 historic structures are protected within the UNESCO core zone. However, commercialism reigns supreme in Hoi An, and it now looks like one big market town that is geared up to cater to the needs of contemporary tourists. This means crowds, but its evening lights, lanterns, and pedestrian areas ensure an alluring setting.
This ancient riverside site sets an example for places like Melaka on how best to manage a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its pedestrianonly streets in the core zone make for a refreshing change from the traffic madness of Vietnam’s large cities.
RESORT HOME
Anantara Hoi An is set amongst landscaped gardens within walking distance of the centre of Hoi An. I chose the property as I was travelling southward through Vietnam by train, and my next leg of that journey was from Danang to Quy Nhon on The Vietage by Anantara, a luxurious rail carriage attached to the rear of a Vietnam Railway train.
It made good sense to stay at the Anantara Hoi An property and the Anantara Quy Nhon when I arrived at the seaside resort of Hoi An. I am glad that I did, as it was just a 15-minute journey to the golf, and just a few minutes from the epicentre of all the Hoi An action, but its garden setting along the river offered a resort that was tranquil and most relaxing. With just 93 rooms located in low-rise wings, there was a sense that I had the place to myself, and I loved relaxing on the riverside balcony of my room as I could enjoy a refreshing beverage while admiring the river traffic.
The Anantara has a spa and a pool to make it a real resort and the Hoi An Riverside has a very smart bar overlooking the river. Its Art Space serves delicious snacks and drinks while supporting local artists and photographers.
GOLF COAST
With other leading courses in the region, Danang lives up to its claim as Vietnam’s Golf Coast. Head a little north to Laguna Lang Co, Vietnam’s first integrated resort complex on a private bay along a sandy stretch of sand that will make most believe they’ve discovered paradise. Danang Golf Club designed by Greg Norman is close to Montgomerie Links and offers another good reason to visit Danang.
Getting There
There are direct budget air flights from Kuala Lumpur’s LCCT to Danang, just two hours away. The alternatives are to fly into either Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City and then domestically to Danang or catch a train. Vietnam is a long, elongated country, and train distances are equally as long, with the journey from Hanoi in the north to HCMC in the south, for example, requiring two nights on the train.
Where to Stay
Danang is undergoing an explosion in tourism and hotel development.
Dining Out
Dining specialties in Hoi An include Hoi An fried rice, cau lau (traditional Hoi An thick noodle soup with beef and fresh herbs), and my quang (a classic Quang Nam Province dish of noodles with chicken and served with rice crackers).
Contact
Montgomerie Links Vietnam (www.montgomerielinks.com)
