Austria is, of course, locked in the cold grip of winter right now, but it’s certainly not too early to start planning your summer season golf travel. If Europe is on your holiday radar, Bad Ischl in the Austrian region of Salzkammergut has one of the country’s most picturesque alpine settings, where golfers can choose to play on seven regional courses. Golfers can enjoy a round of golf along the shores of Lake Fuschl, Mondsee, Attersee, or Traunsee.
Golfers on the Salzkammergut Golf Club enjoy generous greens
Knowing some basic German is essential when visiting the imperial summer retreat of Bad Ischl: bad means spa, see (lake) and salz (salt). These words are important in appreciating Salzkammergut’s history, as it was salt and the mining of it that put the region on the map, and then the lakes and spas appealed to European nobility who began holidaying here in the mid19th century.
On a recent visit, I discovered that Bad Ischl was promoted as a European City of Culture in 2024, as it played a pivotal role in one of the world’s most traumatic conflicts; and it’s a very tranquil and walkable riverside town that should be included in your next European holiday.
Summer in Hallstatt
A SETTING STEEPED IN HISTORY
Up until the 20th century, the Habsburgs ruled over the AustroHungarian Empire from their capital in Vienna. In 1914, Emperor FranzJosef confirmed that he was one of the most powerful European rulers of the time when, on July 28, he declared war on Serbia. This declaration was triggered by the assassination of his nephew and heir apparent to the empire in Serbia a month earlier. The assassination and the declaration led to a chain of events that we know now as World War I.
My high school history was given a new lease of life as I discovered all of the above while inspecting the Kaiservilla in Bad Ischl. Kaiservilla was the summer residence of the Summer in Hallstatt emperor, and it is still in the hands of his descendants. It is open to the public for inspection. The table and declaration are on display in the villa, which is surrounded by landscaped gardens and forests. I reflected on how such a deadly conflict could have started in such a peaceful setting.
Bad Ischl is a small Austrian town located in a mountainous setting
GOLF IN THE IMPERIAL TOWN
Located in the heart of the Salzkammergut between Bad Ischl and St. Wolfgang, the Salzkammergut Golf Club is surrounded by mountain peaks where many Austrians love to spend their recreational time. When it opened in 1933, the golf course became Austria’s fifth club. Today, the course combines tradition and modernity, with the club’s management committed to nurturing and protecting the environment within and around the course.
The 10th hole plays straight towards the pin within sight of the clubhouse
Holes one to 13 are located on the western side of the clubhouse, while holes 14 to 18 are on the eastern side. From the championship white tee, the par-71 course extends for 5,707 m, while from the red tee, it is 4,707 m. Two holes that stand out are the 10th and the 16th. The 486-m 10th,
which tracks westward, is lined with mature trees along a wide fairway. A stream crosses the fairway just before the green, which is concealed off to the left. The 333-m 16th hole is long and straight with a generous green and just one bunker on the right-hand side of the green.
Bad Ischl’s Kongress and Theaterhaus is a venue for the arts surrounded by colourful gardens
A game here is leisurely and not overly challenging. E-carts are available, and those needing some driving practice can freely use the range at the Laimer Golf Training Centre. A practice bunker and chipping green are also available. During the season, bookings are essential, especially at the weekends.
The original Seilern Villa dating back to the 19th century houses the hotel’s two restaurants
The distinctively shaped clubhouse is home to a restaurant, the Hannes Hettegger pro shop and locker rooms. The 19th Hole Restaurant, located in the A-frame clubhouse, serves a fascinating combination of Austrian and Filipino dishes, thanks to the Austrian owner and his Filipino wife. In the warmer months, guests can dine on the sun terrace, which overlooks a cycle path. It is open throughout the golf season, with meals and beverages served in the restaurant or on the panoramic terrace. Meals here include Austrian favourites such as Wiener schnitzel, local fish caught fresh from the lake, and apple strudel, while Austrian wines are also available. The restaurant is open daily from 10 am.
Walk along the Esplanade in Bad Ischl to enjoy the delights served at Café Zauner
Market day in the middle of Bad Ischl is always colourful
TOWN AND REGIONAL TOURING
The minute I mentioned Bad Ischl to any Austrian, the immediate response was a friendly instruction to visit Café Zauner (Konditorei Zauner). While there are many coffeeshops in the small town, Zauner is the one that resonates with most of the locals, although I also found the coffeehouse (Restaurant Elisabeth) in the Hotel Kaiserin Elisabeth, located immediately opposite the main Café Zauner, to be just as atmospheric. Visit both and decide for yourself, while adding Franz Tausch’s original Ischler Lebkuchen into the mix for a near-complete assessment of the local café culture.
Admire picturesque Attersee one of 76 lakes in Salzkammergut
Coffee and cake are quite a ritual in Austria, and especially in Bad Ischl, where in its early days, it was a refined destination for Europe’s well-to-do who had the time and the money to pay for the best. Dining in the town is as disciplined, with classic Austrian dishes such as Wiener schnitzel, tafelspitz and backhendl available in most restaurants. Most diners will be pleasantly surprised by the quality and value of Austrian wines, which are quickly making their mark on wine lists around the globe.
The Salzkammergut Golf Club is one of Austria’s most scenic
Chef Christoph ‘Krauli’ Held has been managing Siriuskogl, one of the most popular restaurants in Bad Ischl, for a few years. Accessing the restaurant is quite a task, as it involves a steep, 20-minute climb to its forested vantage point high above the town. A wonderful natural backdrop and incomparable cuisine make the Siriuskogl visit unforgettable. Diners can expect seasonal, regional and sensational dishes, including creatively plated dips, cold cuts, lake fish, and Austrian classic dishes.
Kaiservilla Bad Ischl
Visitors to the town can learn more about local produce by visiting the local market, which is staged in the centre of the town each Friday morning. Traders set up shop in the early morning to sell a variety of produce, including local cheeses, breads, cured meats, lake fish, wines and plants. While a lively affair, I was impressed that it appeared to be patronised mostly by locals who used the event to catch up with friends over coffee as well as stock their larder.
Backhendl (crumbed chicken) dish
Salzkammergut is home to 76 scenic lakes, which are best explored by car, although some can be visited using the rail network. The main ones are Wolfgangsee, Attersee, Hallstätter See, and Traunsee. In my travels, I visited Traunkirchen on the shores of the Traunsee to dine in the just-opened Belétage located on the first floor of the Hotel Post Traunkirchen. Chef Stefan Griessler and his team have raised the bar here with superb nouvelle traditional cuisine, complemented by a smart list of local and international wines. This is a destination hotel that will appeal to those who love food, wine, and boutique accommodation. Come for a few days and start working your way through the Belétage menu or the more traditional pub food served on the ground floor in Poststube 1327. You might need a few weeks to work your way through the wine list.
Wiener schnitzel
Hallstatt is another lakeside destination that lures tourists for its scenic beauty. Its picturesque setting has helped sell Austria to global tourists who flock here in their thousands each day. The small town can get overcrowded, so if you don’t like crowds, choose one of the other 75 lakes where tranquillity prevails.
TRAVEL FILE
Arriving Vienna is not the best-served European destination from Asia, as it requires at least one transit stop on the journey. Austrian Airlines (austrian.com) flies from Bangkok with connecting flights to Kuala Lumpur on its global alliance airline partner. Flying directly into Salzburg is another option, as some direct international flights land here rather than in Vienna. Trains operated by Austrian Railways, or ÖBB (oebb.at), depart directly from Vienna Airport to Bad Ischl with a change of train at Attnang-Puchheim. Onboard facilities, especially in first class on a Railjet, are excellent and include substantive meals and enticing beverages served at your seat. The rail journey from Vienna to Bad Ischl takes some 3.5 hours.
Accommodation
Villa Seilern Vital Resort Bad Ischl (villaseilern.at) is a delightful hotel with lots of character, excellent rooms, inviting restaurants where an extensive breakfast buffet is served, and a soothing spa with extensive facilities. It is a 15-minute stroll from the railway station or a short taxi ride.
Contacts
Salzkammergut Golf Club (salzkammergut-golf.at), Austrian National Tourist Office (austriatourism.com), and Salzkammergut Tourism (salzkammergut.at).
