Nero Nero: A Southern Italian Standout in Damansara Heights

Damansara City Mall, or DC Mall as it’s commonly known, opened in 2017 as part of a high-end development in Damansara Heights. It was designed as an upscale lifestyle hub, with a focus on curated restaurants, cafes, and premium services, rather than mainstream retail. Despite its well-situated office towers and residences, the mall itself has struggled with footfall and has often appeared surprisingly quiet. The fact that it survived the Covid years is impressive, and that’s likely thanks in part to a small number of well-regarded dining outlets. Whether Pavilion Damansara Heights, opening next door, helps bolster DC Mall remains to be seen. But one thing is clear: some of the restaurants within DC Mall are truly holding it all together.

Among these is Nero Nero, an Italian eatery under the Cinnamon Group that’s been operating on the third floor of the mall since day one. The name itself is intriguing – likely a nod to the Roman Emperor Nero, known both for his flair and his excesses. While the historical Nero ascended to the throne at just 16 and became infamous for his indulgent lifestyle and tyranny, Nero Nero the restaurant instead channels the more elegant and sophisticated qualities of Southern Italy.

Stepping into the open-plan restaurant, we were immediately taken by the charming Italian bistro vibe. Marble fountains, checkered tiles, and a delightful garden terrace give the place a welcoming feel. It’s not hard to imagine this as a lively trattoria in Puglia. The space manages to be both polished and inviting, and the buzz from birthday celebrations and other diners added to the convivial mood without disrupting the air of refinement.

Chef Marco now helms the kitchen, bringing fresh energy and authentic Italian expertise. General Manager Manjeet Negi, who has overseen Nero Nero in both KL and Penang for over eight years, ensures a consistently hospitable experience. His dedication is reflected in the professionalism of the team and the clear enjoyment of the guests.

THE MEAL

From the Antipasti menu, we selected the Carpaccio di Manzo (RM58) and Fritto Mare (RM65). The beef carpaccio, featuring Australian Angus tenderloin, lemon mustard oil, arugula, and Grana Padano cheese, was well executed. But the Fritto Mare truly stole the show – tender, fresh Pantai Remis squid, lightly breaded and fried to perfection.

From the Primi menu, the Pappardelle ai Fungi (RM75) stood out. The handmade pasta, tossed with a truffle mushroom cream sauce and topped with Sardinian pecorino, was deeply satisfying. The portion size was generous, easily shared among two diners.

Moving on to the Secondi menu, which features a wonderful range of dishes from land and sea, we opted for the Dentice Scottato in Padella (RM75), a delectable Sabah hybrid Malabar Snapper fillet, which was flawlessly prepared and presented. Highlighted with a verdant green pea purée and crushed pistachio and placed atop wilted Australian spinach, this is an outstanding dish for anyone who appreciates fish. We also selected a Filetto di Black Angus (200g, RM168), and you need not speak Italian to know what this dish is. Beautifully tender and grilled to a lovely medium-rare, this magnificent cut of Aussie grass-fed tenderloin satisfied our beef craving, and the rich jus which accompanied the steak was irresistible… easily among the best we’ve had. Sides are available, but we were so beguiled by the tenderloin itself, we completely forgot to order any!

By this point, we were definitely well-fed, and decided to forego any other of the fine selections from the menu (there’s an entire page devoted to pizzas) and proceed to Dolci – the sweet ending to the meal. There are rarely any big surprises when it comes to dessert in an Italian restaurant, and Nero Nero is no exception. The triedand-true Italian classics are all on hand, so we selected a Tiramisu (RM45) and a Pannacotta e Vanilla (RM37). The tiramisu was lovely, although we thought it could have used a touch more coffee liqueur or a better soaking in espresso for the ladyfingers to give it that characteristic spongy moistness. That said, however, the panna cotta was astounding, with the thick caramel sauce squeezed on top providing a fantastic balance to the perfectly textured custard.

 

THE WINES

Nero Nero’s wine program deserves special mention. A new wine list, crafted by Cinnamon Group sommelier Anwar Kabir, is in the process of replacing the old one. The new list leans heavily on Italian wines but now includes a more diverse international selection.

Three reds and three whites by the glass are available. Wine purists may find it unusual that for such a detailed and sophisticated wine list, only the grape variety for each of these six wines – Nebbiolo (RM48), Sangiovese (RM40), Nero d’Avola (RM38), Pinot Grigio (RM42), Chardonnay (RM40), and Pecorino (RM45), is listed – with no indication of the label nor the vintage. Additionally, bottles are neither shown nor poured at the table, so wines by the glass simply appear at the table without presentation by the staff. As always, we feel that a restaurant which offers such a refined wine list should be able to provide a complete and proper wine service for those wines which are offered by the glass. Upon our request, however, the bottles made an appearance.

The full list spans Italian sparkling, red, white, rosé, and dessert wines, alongside selections from France, Spain, Germany, Australia, Lebanon, Syria, and the United States. Standouts include Chateau Musar Jeune Blanc (Lebanon), Domaine De Bargylus Blanc (Syria), and Brunello di Montalcino Biondi Santi (Italy). The inclusion of rare and iconic wines alongside more accessible options is a clear strength.

Dining at Nero Nero exceeded our expectations. While the term ‘hidden gem’ is greatly overused, Nero Nero has quietly thrived for years in a relatively subdued shopping mall – and that says a lot. We think the restaurant’s polished yet relaxed ambiance, authentic cuisine, and excellent wine program make it a restaurant worth visiting, whether for a casual dinner or a special night out.

 

Location and Details

Nero Nero

Damansara City Mall, Level 3 6 Jalan Damanlela, Bukit Damansara 50490 Kuala Lumpur

Tel: +603 2011 2448

Open daily: Lunch 12pm – 3pm, Dinner 6pm – 11pm

Reservations accepted