Exhilarating Engelberg

It is almost impossible to imagine a bad golf course setting anywhere in Switzerland. Being the postcard-perfect destination that it is, most courses are located in settings that will seriously distract the most ardent golfer. Some golfers may even be tempted to take more shots with their camera than with their golf clubs.

The Engelberg-Titlis Golf Club, at the base of Mount Titlis, has several unique selling points to ensure it is a must-play course in Switzerland. Its natural assets of the glacial waters of the Engelberger River, cascading waterfalls and the snow-capped peaks surrounding the course create a magical setting. The picturesque scenery also means fresh air and little noise. The only sounds are the tinkering of cowbells and the cascading waters of streams and waterfalls.

SIGNATURE HOLES

In Engelberg, which is one of the most picturesque courses in the country, it’s difficult to identify a bad hole. While they are not all signature holes, the heady combination of towering snowcapped peaks, fast-flowing glacial streams and lush green meadows combine to make this a memorable course both in terms of the golf and the scenery. There are no poor holes on this par 71, 5,505-m (off the white markers) course, but several do stand out. The holes that prove to be most challenging, or impressive in their design, are the seventh, eighth, 13th and 14th.

From the 480-m seventh, the pin is difficult to sight from the yellow tee box, as there is a slight dogleg to the right. On what is the longest hole on the course, it is best to drive straight or slightly to the right, but should your ball drop short at around 150 m, there are two bunkers to contend with near the rough. An accurate second shot should ensure a good lie, and with luck, a chip onto the green and a single putt to get under this par five hole of 480 m in length. Accuracy is essential, as the approach to the green is narrow, but mercifully without bunkers.

While the eighth hole is just 110 m long, the shortest par three on the course is full of intrigue and challenge, as it requires driving across a stream.

The par five 13th hole is deceptive and can be an extremely difficult hole to play, as it is 470 m long and requires golfers to negotiate a glacial stream no less than three times. Here, it’s best to hit off with a driver and then turn to a four iron to get across the stream. From that point, an eight iron should get you onto the green, and then expect at least two putts to make par.

DRIVE TO THE EAGLE

One of the signature holes is the 210-m 14th, which is uphill across the fast-flowing glacial stream and onto an elevated green. Golfers need to drive towards the carved wooden eagle sculpture that guards the back of the green. While it is a par four, those golfers who want to accept the challenge and attack the green should drive across the stream in attempting an eagle. Driving straight is paramount, as immediately to the right of the tee boxes are a pond and a drain that runs all the way to the stream. For those who plan to attack the hole, a drive of at least 135 m across the stream is required.

More conservative golfers should place their first stroke just 100 m from the tee to secure a favourable position for their second shot over the stream. The challenge continues closer to the elevated green, as the hole is guarded by bunkers both left and right.

USEFUL ADVICE

First-time golfers on the course should review the Birdiemaker booklet, which provides aerial layouts and optimal strategies for every hole. Although the details are in German, the layout maps are straightforward enough in providing detailed information on the unsighted holes. Arrive early and sit on the sunny veranda to study each hole. The club recommends assigning a member to guide firsttimers, so consider adding one more player if needed.

Due to ecological considerations, the club cannot mow the rough until mid-June because birds feed here. This is great for bird-watching golfers, but errant balls hit into the tall, flowering grass are difficult to locate.

Golfers need to play the course with their head as much as with their driver, as the fairways constantly deliver surprises. The mix of water, rocks, and greenery – plus the fact that the fairways are narrow and the rough can be treacherous – makes this a course for thinking golfers. Interestingly, there are just a few bunkers, and most are easy to play

COMPACT FACILITIES, MOUNTAIN ATTRACTIONS

The Golf Stubli, overlooking the 10th tee, is where golfers can enjoy the summer sunshine on the open verandah or inside when the weather gets cool. The food and beverages served in the clubhouse restaurant are a combination of traditional Swiss and international comfort food. There is a reasonable wine list, with local Swiss wines well represented. Golfers can stock up at the pro shop and brush up on their game at the Andreas Prinzing Golf Academy.

While Spannort Mountains (Big and Small) are clearly visible from the golf course, neighbouring Mount Titlis (3,239 m) is the main reason most travellers venture to this part of Switzerland. The mountain is popular with tourists and skiers, with the cable car station being close to the Engelberg town centre.

Glacial peaks of Titlis and even Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau are the drawcard, and the opportunity to walk on the glacial landscape appeals to tourists from around the globe. Others come to ski and snowboard in winter and hike the trails in summer. Paragliding (including tandem flights), kayaking, canyoning, and rock climbing also feature on the region’s list of outdoor adventures. There are also five via ferrata (iron walkways up near-vertical cliffs), as well as biking

Engelberg is a tourist town, and commensurate with that, it’s safe to say no one will go hungry here. Hotel Engelberg in the centre of the town’s small pedestrian shopping precinct offers Swiss, Italian and French cuisine. Order Swiss delicacies of jägerhörnli or Älpermagronen of macaroni, ham, bacon, onion, parsley, tomato, cheese, and cream, which are very filling dishes, especially on a cool evening. Enjoy your meal with a glass of Chasselas wine or a chilled Feldschlôsschen lager.

I travelled by train directly from Zürich International Airport to Engelberg after arriving on SWISS with a train change at Luzern. However, various combinations of cable car, cogwheel railway and ferry mean that visitors can travel from Engelberg up to Mount Titlis and down the other side to Altdorf and then back to Luzern across Lake Uri.

TRAVEL FILE

Travelling to and Around Switzerland SWISS (swiss.com) flies daily to Zürich, and there are seamless connecting flights from Kuala Lumpur. There is only one way to travel around Switzerland, and that is via the rail, which connects to most cities, towns and villages in the country. Purchase a Swiss Travel Pass (swiss-pass.ch) online to enable travel to most places. Pass holders also receive discounts on some high mountains serviced by private railway systems.

Engelberg is a little over two hours by rail from Zürich Airport with a change of train at Luzern Station. Getting to the golf course from Engelberg Station isn’t a problem, as there are taxis as well as the complimentary town bus, which regularly connects to all the attractions in the small village and the cable car to Mount Titlis.

 

Accommodation

Kempinski Palace (kempinski.com) is a five-star heritage hotel with fascinating architectural elements from the Belle Époque era. This luxurious 139-room property includes indulgences such as Cattani Restaurant, The Palace Bar, where local gins and vermouths combine for the perfect Negroni, Habanos Cigar Lounge and a spa. Located near the train station, the rooms offer luxurious amenities, and many have balconies for admiring the view.

Contact

Golf Club Engelberg-Titlis (golfclub-engelberg.ch) and Engelberg-Titlis Tourism (engelberg.ch).