It was a trip that I looked forward to. The trip was scheduled from 15th to 17th December 2023. We chartered a bus to take us with bikes to Kuala Kangsar, from where we would cycle to Betong, Thailand, on the border with Perak, a cycling distance of approximately 160 kilometres. There were eleven of us on the trip. We set off from Kuala Lumpur at 3.00 am.
Wefie by Marcus – Back L-R: Sebastian, Tony, Bong, writer, Soh, Eric, Matt, Smiley & Hon
ARRIVING AT KUALA KANGSAR
We arrived at Kuala Kangsar at 6.00 am when the town was still asleep. Everybody was quick to disembark and ready themselves for the ride. Unfortunately, on reaching Kuala Kangsar, Chye, one of our cyclists, needs to return home immediately due to a family emergency. It dampened everyone’s morale, but it was inevitable. We couldn’t help but sympathize with him. Once geared up, we headed for a good breakfast before starting the day with an exploration of Kuala Kangsar, a first for all of us. The early morning ride was nice and cool as we cruised the main road and wove through the villages. Kuala Kangsar is the royal town of Perak with its famous Malay College Kuala Kangsar, the cradle of education for many Malay national leaders, past and present. We missed seeing the college but we managed to visit the famous Victoria Bridge.
Writer at Victoria Bridge
Victoria Bridge
VICTORIA BRIDGE
Victoria Bridge, located in Karai, Kuala Kangsar is one of the oldest railway bridges in Malaysia, constructed between 1897 and 1900, as a crossing over the Perak River to serve the local tin mining industry. While the old bridge is closed to rail traffic, its adjoining footbridge is still open to motorcycles and pedestrians. Victoria Bridge’s structure is a beauty and not surprisingly a tourist attraction.
Loh Dee Wan Ton Mee
THE RIDE FROM KUALA KANGSAR TO LENGGONG (45 KILOMETRES)
After Victoria Bridge, it’s time to head for Betong. Sebastian, our trip organizer, aimed to reach Betong by evening. None of us had traversed this route before, unaware that we were embarking on a lifetime adventure ride. To reach Betong our ride would take us through the towns of Sauk, Lenggong, Gerik, and Pengkalan Hulu the border town, before entering Betong, Thailand. The ride from Kuala Kangsar to Lenggong, under an overcast sky, took us through gentle undulating country roads, flanked by eye-pleasing views of rubber trees and jungles. We all marvelled at the idyllic village houses with their spacious compounds. Matt’s punctured tyre unexpectedly halted us, affording a chance to admire the surrounding beauty. Less than an hour into our ride, we entered the Sauk-Lenggong Bypass road. No more under the jungle shade, we cruised in a single disciplined file along the straight bypass road, passing by Sauk en route to Lenggong.
Matt’s tyre punctured
Eric, nicknamed “train-head” for his speed and tendency to lead, heads the peloton most of the time. Occasionally, shouts of “car back” from the rear of the peloton warned of approaching vehicles from behind. The feminine and clear shouts of “car back” from Smiley, the pretty, petite, and only female cyclist in the group, stood in contrast to the hoarse shouts from the rest. It was great that Marcus dedicated himself to being the team’s photographer and videographer. He would tirelessly capture moments, at times sprinting ahead for videos as we approached on our bikes from afar
Scenic Tasik Raban Bridge
SCENIC TASIK RABAN
En route, Tasik Raban Bridge offered scenic views of the huge Tasik Raban near Sauk, 34 kilometres from Kuala Kangsar. We paused for quick photos, admiring people fishing and boating amid chalets and resorts dotting the distant misty mountains.
LENGGONG TOWN
In Lenggong, known for its archaeological sites, Sebastian discovered Loh Dee Wan Ton Mee, a hidden gem for lunch. We arrived around noon and enjoyed delicious traditional wonton noodles cooked over firewood.
THE RIDE FROM LENGGONG TO GERIK (52 KILOMETRES)
While in Lenggong for lunch, we were worried as threatening clouds loomed overhead and we still had 100 kilometres ahead. The thought of the remaining distance and the urgency to reach border crossings before closure pushed us forward, despite the looming threat of heavy rain amid a slight drizzle.
Taking Shelter from the rain
WHEN IT RAIN, IT POURS…
THE FIRST STOP FOR SHELTER
True enough, half an hour into our ride, the sky opened up and we had to quickly look for a shelter. Fortunately, as the rain poured down, we reached a nearby Shell petrol station. We were stranded for slightly more than an hour at the station. It was already past 3.00 pm when the rain finally tapered off and we could move again, albeit at a slower pace due to the wet conditions.
Shivering Cold and Wet
THE SECOND STOP FOR SHELTER.
We were able to move for more than an hour, covering about 35 kilometres, before heavy rain drenched us again less than 10 kilometres from Gerik town. We quickly sought shelter in an empty roadside stall about 5 kilometres from Gerik. It was getting dark by then. In our soaked suits, amidst the sound of rain on the roof and chilly wind, the feeling was quite miserable. At one point, shivering, we huddled together for warmth. The irony was undeniable, we were in a village called Kampung Air Panas, or “Village of Hot Water.” The sight of imposing timber-laden lorries passing by added to our misery. To worsen matters, Matt suffered a third tyre puncture of the day. The others were quick to assist looking for the tiny punctured hole, akin to finding a needle in a haystack.
Approaching 5.00 pm, we remained stranded at the roadside stall due to the wet road conditions and continuous heavy rain. With reduced visibility, it seems unwise to continue. Finally, with the rain easing up, we opted to continue our journey as we were running late. We reached Gerik at about 6 pm and stopped for a quick refill. It was still drizzling. Marcus quickly bought some buns for everybody to replenish their energy. From Gerik, it’s 45 kilometres to Pengkalan Hulu. A few kilometres after Gerik, the rain stopped, yet evening had already descended. We had to proceed cautiously due to the wet road conditions and water puddles. By now, our headlights were on as the yellow street lights proved inadequate. Exhausted yet nearing Betong, we believed the toughest part was behind us, only to be met with a surprise ahead.
Ride in total darkness
THE RIDE IN THE DARK,
THE FINAL 25 KILOMETRES….
The worst was not over yet. What stood in front of us was a final home run of approximately 25 kilometres to Pengkalan Hulu.
The route began with a 2-kilometres gradual winding uphill climb before we reached a plateau. It was already pitch dark by then, with no moonlight, street light, or houses nearby. We only had our bikes’ headlights for company. As tiredness set in, we inevitably split into groups as some moved ahead first. But we soon realised, we should stick close together for companionship and safety.
It’s dark
The road ahead seemed to disappear into the darkness as our headlights could barely pierce a meter ahead. Passing vehicles illuminated the road, creating surreal scenes akin to alien ships descending on Earth. Cycling in the dark, we were just unsure what lies ahead.
On the pitch-dark, deserted road, we could hear each other’s heavy breathing as we struggled up the seemingly endless path. Each uphill pedal became increasingly challenging as the night wore on. Wisely, together with Tony and Marcus, we proceeded slowly together. Matt and Smiley, accompanied by Sebastian, were a short distance back. The unexpectedly rolling terrain surprised everyone including Sebastian despite his earlier research on the route and its degree of difficulty.
Tired but determined, we pressed onward toward the border checkpoints, deceived by false finishes amidst relentless ascents and descents, the route seeming endless in the night.
Bong claimed that the sight of a Petronas station would mean we had reached Betong. In the darkness, we were hopeful for a Petronas signage’s glow on the far horizon, but until we reached Pengkalan Hulu, none appeared, leaving us wondering which route had Bong taken.
We joked about the luck of not encountering wild animals during our dark ride. Some got separated and cycled alone. Soh, strong-legged and adept at uphill cycling without gear adjustments, shared that at some stretches, he was compelled to push through without stopping despite having a dim headlight. The thought of anyone sliding off into the ravines chilled us.
After numerous ups and downs, we finally reached Pengkalan Hulu around 10 pm, tired and hungry. Regrouping swiftly, we proceeded to the checkpoints situated high on the plateau of the Thai-Malaysian border mountain range.
THE TOWN OF BETONG
After immigration, it was a winding downhill road to Betong town where we had a satisfying dinner before retiring to our Airbnb. Despite the rain and cold, we reminisced about our adventure late into the night, with plenty of banter and laughter before sleep came. Hon, who had a slight fever, was the first to sleep. He did recover in time though to enjoy Betong’s attractions.
The morning after, we explored Betong with the easily available Tuk-tuk truck. Tourism drives Betong’s economy, offering diverse activities and a vibrant food scene. No language barrier here due to its high number of Thai Chinese and Malay residents. Betong is crowded with Malaysians during major festive holidays. Our visit to Chantharattanaram Monastery was a highlight, where we experienced a cold water flower bath and received blessings from the priest.
Breakfast at Betong
TIME TO GO HOME
After two nights in Betong, our return journey was leisurely compared to the adventurous arrival. The chartered bus picked us up straight from Betong. Despite cycling 160 kilometres from Kuala Kangsar, enduring rainsoaked conditions, and a daunting final 25 kilometres in darkness, we cherished the memorable experience, testing our stamina and teamwork in a journey of camaraderie.
Betong famous Post Box
JOY OF CYCLING
My cycling passion started in mid2017, joining like-minded buddies, and I have been enjoying it ever since. Originally formed by Tony with four members, our group, which we call “UP UP Bikelicious,” has now expanded to fifteen members. We regularly cycle around Klang Valley and Selangor on Sundays. Cycling allows me to relish life’s simple pleasures and to live life in the moment.
Betong Town
