In an era when overseas travel was exclusively for the well-to-do, holidaying in Hua Hin became very popular with Bangkok residents. They travelled by train to Hua Hin and stayed in what was originally called the Railway Hotel, a modest property of just 14 rooms located immediately on the beach in the centre of the town. It opened in 1923, and over the past century, the property has been extended to over 200 rooms and is now known as the Centara Grand Beach Resort and Villas Hua Hin.
The Hua Hin resort strip along the western side of the Gulf of Thailand was once a destination that the Thais kept largely to themselves. When I first travelled to the kingdom several decades ago, a seasoned Thai visitor suggested Hua Hin as an idyllic seaside resort far from the cares of the world.
After conducting some due diligence on this destination, I appreciated that Hua Hin was for the locals, while Phuket and Pattaya were for tourists. I took the lesstrodden path to Hua Hin and didn’t regret it. Over the years, I have returned regularly to learn that global travellers have discovered the once-sleepy town and that it is now a bustling international tourist destination.
Golf has always been a good reason to travel to Hua Hin, with the Royal Hua Hin Golf Course, Thailand’s oldest and one of its most exclusive golf courses, located just near the railway station. The first nine opened in 1924, and the full course a few years later. Now there are a plethora of regional golf courses, including Springfield, Palm Hills, Imperial Lakeview, Majestic Creek, Black Mountain and Milford to earn the title of the Golf Coast of Thailand.
On my most recent visit, I chose to visit Banyan Golf Club, but when I arrived, I discovered that it had been renamed Pineapple Valley Golf Course.
Stay by the sea at Let’s Sea Hua Hin
ARRIVING BY TRAIN
After my AirAsia flight touched down at Bangkok’s Don Mueang Airport, I chose road travel as the quickest mode of transport to Hua Hin. On the way south, I looked for the railway line, which arrived in the town in 1911 and led to the town being developed as Thailand’s first seaside resort. It was then little more than a fishing village, but its potential as a seaside resort was appreciated when the railway line arrived in town.
The Thai king became a rail enthusiast after Queen Victoria gifted him a train set. The Railway Hotel became a magnet for Thailand’s high society, especially after the king established a royal residence just north of the town. As the king held court here in the summer, those seeking an audience had no choice but to travel here by train and stay in the Railway Hotel.
While much bigger now, the hotel is regarded as one of Asia’s grand heritage properties and well worth visiting for afternoon tea in the Museum Café or a refreshing beverage in the Elephant Bar. I did both but chose to stay at Let’s Sea Resort as it was closer to the Pineapple Valley course.
Water hazards provide challenging golf at Pineapple Valley Hua Hin
Teeing off on the 18th hole Pineapple Valley Hua Hin
PLANTATION GOLF
Opened in 2009, the 18-hole Pineapple Valley Golf Club, designed by leading Thai golf course designer Pirapon Namatra (Santiburi Koh Samui, Bangsai Country Club Ayutthaya and Alpine Chiang Mai), weaves its way across a former pineapple plantation. Pineapples still grow on sections of the course, but they are more of a design feature than a productive farm. The fruit theme is extended to the tee-box markers, which are all shaped like pineapples.
Golfers playing from the black tee enjoy a 7,361, par-72 game, while those driving from the white tees, have just 5,087 yards to conquer. The course is meticulously maintained and offers golfers a world-class experience with comprehensive facilities. Golfers who are used to playing resort courses will love the wide fairways and landing areas. However, the course is undulating, the bunkers are high, and the greens can be challenging.
Enjoy views into distant Myanmar from Pineapple Hills Golf Club Hua Hin
Hole number three has rolling fairways and a good drive downhill will assist in getting on the green in two strokes. This hole is commonly selected for longest drive competitions, and with the wind from behind, it can make a difference, especially for those who enjoy driving.
The 253-yard fourth hole requires a tee shot of at least 150 yards to get over the water hazard. Those who achieve this are rewarded with a large green on the other side. This hole will challenge those driving from the back tee, but the reward is to enjoy a drink at the kiosk after putting out.
The sixth is one of the most beautiful holes, with its winding fairway and a pond near where your drive should land. The difficulty is in the second shot but spend some time taking in the scenery while contemplating which club to use. Take your time, as the seventh hole is considered by many to be the most difficult on the course. Others would argue that the par-four, 430- yard 10th is the most challenging.
Travel to Hua Hin by train
Panoramic sea views can be had on some of the holes, and if a breeze is blowing, it can cool you down but also add another dimension to your game. The par-four, 396-yard 13th hole offers a different view from the tee box, which is perched on top of a rock with a Buddhist temple just to the left. The green is small, and there are no bunkers surrounding it.
The steep-pitched, Thai-style clubhouse includes luxurious changing rooms, exclusive club suite accommodation, Mulligan’s Pub and The Terrace Restaurant. There is a practice range and two practice greens with bunkers. Caddy fees and cart rental (with GPS and touchscreen applications) are included in the green charges. Spectacular sunset views of the mountains that delineate the border with neighbouring Myanmar are a good reason to linger longer at Milligan’s.
REGIONAL ACTIVITIES
Being the seaside resort that it is, there are numerous activities available on the land and in the sea. Horse rides were and still are popular along the main beach, with numerous handlers available to guide guests. This is indeed a rare sight in Asia and an iconic image of this holiday destination.
The popular Hua Hin Night Market isn’t the only market in town, with Tamarind and Cicada Markets just 7 km south of the town centre. Both are within walking distance of the Let’s Sea Resort. These markets are adjacent to one another, so weekend visitors are spoilt for choice. The former is more for upmarket arts, crafts and fashion, while the Tamarind Market is more food-oriented.
Hua Hin has long been popular with the Thai royal family since they started holidaying here not long after the railway arrived. Klai Kangwon remains a summer palace for the royal family, while Maruek Katayawan in Cha Am is open to the public. Factory outlets along the main highway to Bangkok provide a distraction for shoppers.
Horseriding along Hua Hin beachfront is a popular activity
SEASIDE SOJOURN
Resorts and apartment complexes extend along a long stretch of beachfront from Cha Am in the north to Hua Hin in the south. Most international chains have at least one property along the strip, but it was Let’s Sea, a Thaiowned property, that captured my attention.
Let’s Sea Resort and the adjoining Loligo Resort are under the same family-owned management, and guests can be assured of personalised service that caters well to golfers. The former is wellequipped for families, while the latter is more of a couples’ resort. Both share a long seafront with few beachgoers, and while the sun sets behind the resort, enjoying a seaside beverage served from Squid Ink Bar is an essential pastime. Choose a lounge on the decorative terrace or in the gardens and enjoy a pre-dinner beverage. The food and wines are taken very seriously at Loligo, with some contemporary Western, Thai, and Thai fusion dishes from which to choose. The wine list is superb; try the Austrian Grüner Veltliner to discover how this variety is a perfect pairing for many Thai dishes.
Hua Hin is one of Thailand’s best golf tourism destinations, and with courses such as Pineapple Valley, it’s easy to see why golfers are spoilt for choice.
Muruk Khatayawan Palace Cha Am
TRAVEL FILE
Getting There AirAsia flies to Bangkok’s Don Mueang Airport, and from here, the three-hour overland journey to Hua Hin can be arranged. The railway from Bangkok southward through Hua Hin is being progressively double-tracked and upgraded, and in the not-too-distant future, improved rail connections will be available. The current rail services are slow and not convenient for most visitors.
Where to Stay
Let’s Sea Resort (www.letussea. com).
Contact
Pineapple Valley Golf Club (www.pineapplevalleygolfclub. com).
