Margaret River is one of the world’s most picturesque and geographically secluded coastal wine regions. While remote, wine lovers can depart Kuala Lumpur on a morning AirAsia flight, transit through Perth in the early afternoon, and arrive in the Margaret River region in time for dinner.
The region’s ancient landforms, vast eucalypt forests, and distinct ironstone gravel soils all come together to provide a ‘textbook perfect’ ecosystem for crafting premium wines. The consistent Mediterranean climate, tempered by the waters of the Indian and Southern Oceans which coalesce here, is a vital element in the winemaking equation.
Recently, we sampled a range of magnificent red wines produced in Margaret River and thought it Evans & Tate in Margaret River is well set up for wine tourism now appropriate to investigate the wondrous whites made alongside these red wines. Several white grape varieties are grown in the Margaret River region to make up 57% of all vineyard plantings. The percentages of the total plantings by variety are Sauvignon Blanc (18.2%), Chardonnay (17.3%), Sémillon (16.5%), and other whites such as Riesling, Verdelho, and Chenin Blanc (5%).
While all these are produced as single varietals, Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc – known colloquially as ‘SSB’ – is the staple Margaret River white wine blend. It’s worth noting that Margaret River Chardonnays are awarded more wine trophies than Chardonnays from any other Australian wine region.
Its relative proximity to Kuala Lumpur also means that Margaret River wine touring is a real possibility for enthusiastic wine connoisseurs. The region’s beaches, forests, farmlands, boutique hotels, restaurants, distilleries, craft breweries, and markets provide good reason to travel Down Under to sample the wines below, but also to seek out some that are only available in the region. Here are four white wines that impressed us most on our most recent visit to Margaret River.
Pierro L.T.C. (Les Trois Cuvées)
Les Trois Cuvées translates as ‘The Three Vats’ and is a reference to the three grape varieties that make up this blend. Crafted by Dr Mike Peterkin at Pierro in Margaret River, L.T.C. is an SSB blend with a touch of Chardonnay and reflects the winery’s commitment to innovation and quality. (Some have suggested that ‘LTC’ may even refer to a ‘little touch of Chardonnay.’) The release of L.T.C. followed Dr Peterkin’s pioneering work at neighbouring Cullen Wines, where he tinkered with the blend. He never claimed originality for the idea; he simply borrowed it from the French (these blends are characteristic of Bordeaux, most notably the Graves district and its famous Sauternes appellation). The inaugural Les Trois Cuvées, released in 1983, showcased the blend’s potential for the Margaret River region. Being quite a mouthful, not surprisingly, the name was abbreviated to L.T.C., and then, Pierro Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc. When it became the latter, devotees familiar with the L.T.C. style wondered what happened to their beloved wine. It then reverted to L.T.C.
Pierro is one of the region’s most respected wineries, known for premium wines and its policy of high-density planting. This approach enhances vine competition, balances fruit yield and intensifies flavour. Its wines are crafted with attention to detail, reflecting the estate’s philosophy of producing opulent and powerful wines that are both immediately enjoyable and capable of maturing gracefully through the addition of Sémillon. A hint of Chardonnay adds power and body. The batches are fermented separately using different yeasts to enhance complexity. A quarter of the wine is aged in French oak barriques for two to three months, adding mouthfeel and texture. The wines are then combined and left on lees for a few months before bottling. We like its hint of grassiness, lifted tropical fruit aromas, minerality, and citrus flavours on the palate. It’s a dry wine, not overly fruity, and a perfect accompaniment to seafood when served chilled to 14-16°C.
Cullen Sauvignon Blanc Sémillon
First planted in 1971, Cullen Wines is one of the pioneer estates in the region and is now a most respected organic and biodynamic producer. Some 720 hectares, or 12.3% of the region’s vineyards, are certified organic or biodynamic. Margaret River produces its own distinctive white wine blend using Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc grape varieties. Regionally, these wines are lively, fresh, and fruit-driven, with many producers employing barrel or skin-contact fermentation for added complexity, weight and concentration. The wines are wellsuited to food pairing, particularly with the region’s abundant seafood. The Cullen interpretation of the style features aromas of gooseberry, passionfruit, and lime that create a very favourable first impression.
This Cullen wine is made from 100% certified biodynamic carbon-positive fruit. In line with biodynamic practices, the fruit was hand-harvested in Cullen’s Mangan vineyard on 100% flower days, including one flower Moon opposite Saturn harvest. There have been no additions of yeast or acid, and very low yields provided concentrated delicious fruit to make a pure wine. It’s an elegant white wine with a persistent finish on the palate. It has a certain smokiness that combines with a palate of lime and grapefruit. This is a perfect wine to drink with grilled or fried fish, such as King George Whiting if you are in Western Australia or Chinese steamed fish in Malaysia. Cullen is an essential stop for anyone planning a wine tour of Margaret River. While wine sampling in the Biodynamic Tasting Room is chargeable, the price is deducted from any wine purchases that are made.
Evans & Tate Classic SémillonSauvignon Blanc
Evans & Tate is one of the wellestablished regional wineries located in the northern part of the Margaret River wine region. Anything referred to as ‘classic’ here isn’t just famous or distinctive from a past era; it’s something that continues to be relevant and useful outside the specific time frame from which it was created. Following the grape harvest in the coolest part of the evening, the grapes were gently pressed, and the juice settled in tanks at 10°C for two days. The clear juice was racked off and warmed to 17°C and inoculated with yeast to enable fermentation to begin. During fermentation, cool temperatures were maintained to encourage aroma production, texture and overall varietal character. The individual varieties were then blended before being stabilised and filtered before bottling
This minimalistic and uncomplicated winemaking has retained the primary fruit flavours and aromas so critical to this style. It has been made to drink now, especially as an accompaniment to fresh seafood. It has a pale that is so typical of this much-loved Margaret River white blend. Fresh and bright aromas with a lovely grassy, aromatic lift along with cut grass, lime and lemongrass dominate. The palate is juicy with salivating acidity and lovely freshness. This easydrinking wine pairs well with Thai green chicken or seafood curry. This classic-styled wine is well-priced and made for early consumption.
Leeuwin Estate Art Series Riesling
This celebrated wine estate is well known for its Art Series wines. In the 1980s, London-based wine magazine Decanter held an international Chardonnay tasting in which the 1981 Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay was the highestrated white wine. This vindicated two bold decisions that Leeuwin Estate had made: the releasing of the wine at five years of age and a premium price relative to other Australian Chardonnays. This international attention cemented Margaret River’s reputation very early in its winemaking history. (Chardonnay was first planted in Margaret River in 1976, with the Gingin clone highly regarded.)
The Art Series Riesling is included here rather than the equally impressive Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc from the same series (indeed, the Art Series Chardonnay is often considered to be one of Australia’s finest white wines). We love Rieslings, as they pair especially well with many Asian cuisines. Once very fashionable, Riesling suffered when herbaceous New World Sauvignon Blancs captured everyone’s palates. We focus on the Art Series Riesling here for its zesty, citrus floral aromas. The wine is made from estate-grown grapes sourced from vineyards first planted in 1976. It is a delicate and elegant wine, with finely tuned flavours of lemons and limes. The late but celebrated Australian artist John Olsen is the featured label artist. His green frog label (‘Frogs in Riesling’) adds to the pleasure and enjoyment of this Riesling.
