250 kilometres , 6 Stage Ultra Marathon, 22-28 September 2024
(I planned, I arrived, I raced and I conquered…my story)
Day 1 on the starting line
PART 1
Jordan was supposed to take place last year (2023) where over 300 competitors signed up. Then Gaza happened and many transferred to other races such as Atacama and Gobi. I decided to maintain my spot at the Jordan race which was held from 22-28 September 2024. This was a special one-off race held in conjunction with the 20th anniversary of Racing The Planet (organisers of these races).
On the starting line, we had 104 competitors representing about 40 countries. 83 competitors crossed the line at the end of the race. The dropout rate was 20%. The only support provided by the organiser was a medical team, tent and limited supply of water each day. Competitors had to meet mandatory gear requirement and bring their own food, nutrition and whatever else they require. It’s therefore a delicate balance between weight and speed (the lighter the pack, the faster you can run).
Cosy sleeping conditions in a tent
Race preparation started on Saturday at the Old Village Resort (official pre and post-race hotel) in Wadi Musa, a 3-hour drive from Amman.
Daily fellowship, tent accomodation in the background
Pre-race – Saturday 21 September 2024
All competitors had their equipment and mandatory gear checked. Mandatory gear comprised a list of 35 items including backpack, hydration system, sleeping bag, food supply, electrolytes, blister kit amongst others. Backpacks were weighed and my pack came in at 10.8 kilograms. I had packed minimum except for food and nutrition where I carried more than required for fear of hunger. The minimum race requirement was 14,000 calories, I had close to 27,000 calories in the form of freeze-dried food and gels/salt tablets/carbohydrate drink powder. The lightest competitor backpack came in around 5 kilograms + and heaviest about 15 kilograms. I then knew I had too many calories.
Local Bedouin volunteers
Bibs were assigned and a GPS tracking device was installed on the pack of each competitor. I was assigned No. 57 as my competitor number. At the start of each day’s stage, the race director gave a briefing at 7.30am on the day’s route description, weather and other useful information. Race flagged off at 8am except on the last day Saturday 28 September 2024, where we flagged off at 7.00am.
Competitors were then transported from Wadi Musa to King’s campsite, home for the night under the stars. The journey was a bus ride of some 2.5 hours followed by a four-wheel drive of about 30 minutes to reach camp.
Sand and rocks as far as the eye can see
Home for the next week will be in tents that will sleep 6 persons under the desert stars. My tent had an international flavour with competitors from US, UK, Netherlands, Canada and Philippines…. age wise all around the same vintage. The difference was that I am competing in my first race whilst the others are doing their 3rd or 4th or 5th 250 kilometre race. In an event such as this, experience counts and is priceless. I did my best to observe and learn from them.
Tentmates
Stage 1, Sunday 22 September 2024 – Lawrence’s Playground, 41 kilometres
Lining up on the starting line, my adrenaline was pumping. The many hours of preparation came down to this moment (I had initially signed for the race in Gobi Desert in 2020 and was deferred because of Covid). After a much delayed 4 years, I was eager and ready to go for my first multi stage race over 7 days. Nothing I have done or competed in comes bigger than this event – 250 kilometre of self-supported racing through the deserts, canyons and valleys of Jordan. Quite a few of us were newbies, running a race with Racing the Planet (https://www. racingtheplanet.com/the-20-yearrace) for the very first time. Others were experienced, many were podium runners and achievers in their own right career wise or in sports. I was in good company if I needed to ask anyone for help! And the fact that there was a team of qualified medical doctors (all of whom have volunteered in previous races) stationed at camp and every checkpoint provided some comfort that we will be well looked after in a medical emergency.
I thought to myself, I am as prepared as can be and let’s just get on with it. I was confident that the 170 kilometres hike I did at the French, Italian and Swiss Alps the month before will be adequate training. After all, the elevation in Jordan was expected to be much less. But little did I expect other challenges.
Camp under the stars
I started with a burst of energy, keeping to my race strategy and the pace I had planned. My target was to sustain a pace of around 10 minute per kilometres. It was cool and slightly breezy, making the first 10 kilometres to the first checkpoint an easy stroll. The scenery of Wadi Rum across the valley was magnificent unlike anything I have seen or experienced before. Checkpoint 2 came and the heat was already in full force, the wind had withered down. The weather started to get unbearably hot, sufficient water consumption was a must unless I risk dehydration.
Blisters being treated by medic
When I reached checkpoint 3, the heat was in full force, sapping energy quickly. I made sure I consumed at least 3 litres of water between checkpoints whilst monitoring my sodium levels. The terrain on this stage was generally sandy, rocky with some undulation. Sand gaiters came in handy, preventing sand from getting into the shoes and increasing the chances of foot blisters.
I had covered approximately 30 kilometres. Left with 10 kilometres to go for stage 1, I powered on with whatever I had left in the tank. As temperatures rose to above 40-degree Celsius, my body started to overheat. Every opportunity to cool down was taken, splashed water from head to toe at every checkpoint. This was a temporary relief lasting no more than 20 minutes in the desert.
Trying to hitch a ride
Water consumption averaged 10-12 litres every day. At the same time, my target carb intake was 60-80gms per hour to provide the calories required. This amount of water intake was complemented by electrolytes to ensure that I maintain sufficient sodium levels to prevent cramping.
At each checkpoint, there was a doctor to check on every competitor to ensure that everyone can complete the stage. Finally, after 7.5 hours, I entered camp concluding my first day of desert adventure. I thought to myself that I was in great physical shape except my feet which hurt as my shoes felt tight. This was surprising as I used the same pair of shoes hiking the Alps.
Not for big sizes
Getting to my tent, I removed my shoes and socks only to be greeted with shock and horror…. black toe nails and multiple blisters, reward for the day’s effort! Immediately I sank to the floor and put my head in my hands…. how do I endure the pain for the next 200 plus kilometres? The thought of DNF (Did Not Finish) crossed my mind. Adding to my blister issue, the arm on my powered sunglasses broke – it could not get any worse. Shattered for a moment, I told myself to calm down. I took a few deep breaths, regrouped my thoughts and hatched a plan of action to overcome the odds. Clearly, the shoe that served me well hiking in the Alps was not suitable in the desert heat where my feet expanded substantially.
First was to treat the blisters. I went to see the doctors at the medic tent. The doctor made a small incision into the toe nails to drain the fluid to release the pressure. The same was done for the blisters around my toes. And then all my toes were taped. The black toe nails and blisters have been treated but I was not convinced I could run the next day. However, I told myself one step at a time and hopefully after a good night’s rest, my feet will feel much better.
Setting out from camp
Second was to fix my sunglasses. I was fortunate to carry a small tube of super glue and after affixing glue to join back the broken arm, I felt my sunglasses was able to withstand the rigours of the next few days. I was ready to go.
Third was to adjust my strategy, just to ensure I meet the cut-off times.
Fourth was to manage my own expectations.
Fifth there was no mobile signal to seek help or extract sympathy from friends and family – no use crying over spilt milk. Just get on with the job on hand.
With 6 persons sharing a tent, sleeping well was a bonus. Tossing and turning became the norm and so was “Mozart’s” orchestra playing in the dead of night. Different tunes coming from different mouths. Toilet break by anyone sharing the same tent means sleep disturbance especially if you are a light sleeper.
Sand everywhere
Stage 2, MonDay 23 September 2024 – Wadi Rum Rock Formations, 36 kilometres
The next thing I knew it was 5am and time to get ready for an 8am flag-off. Breakfast was freeze dried oats, where you poured hot water into the bag and eat. I felt my feet, it appears to have recovered quite well after a night’s rest and I thought I am quite ready to give it a go and endure the pain from blisters for Stage 2. As usual we had the mandatory race briefing at 7.30am by the race director. We were briefed on the weather, race distance, checkpoint location and terrain that we had to traverse.
Five minutes before 8am, all competitors gathered at the starting line. This stage was run in open terrain, no shade whatsoever with temperatures in over 40-degree Celcius range… damn, another hot, dry and dusty day! The terrain will be very soft sand, dusty and lots of rock formations. Elevation gains of 500 metres plus over 36 kilometres should be manageable, I told myself.
At the start line, my race strategy changed from an initial target pace of 10min per km to meeting the cut-off times. I knew my blisters will hold me back and my strategy was to ensure I crossed the finish line, thereby necessitating a change in pace. Working backward from the distance and cut-off times for each checkpoint, I calculated that if I could sustain a 15 minutes per kilometre pace, I can cross the line within the cut-off times. Never mind the race position but the aim was to stay in the game until the last day. I knew I had the physical stamina and endurance to cross the line, but I am not sure if the pain from the blisters would allow that. I said to myself if it’s not life threatening, I can push through the pain barrier for the next few days, however painful. It’s all mental! After all, the mind controls the body.
I had to readjust my footwork. Instead of running, I had to walk as briskly as I could to manage the pain. I realised that even at 15 minutes per kilometre pace in soft sand is much more challenging than on tarmac. Also, sandy terrain was much more energy sapping. I made it to the first and subsequent checkpoints. At every checkpoint, I removed my shoes and socks to treat the blisters. Draining any fluid and re-taping again before moving on. This was my ritual on Stage 3 and 4 as well. Not to dwell too much on the pain, I focussed my attention to the beautiful surrounding terrain…. an area where tourists would never have access to.
This race was organised with the sanction of the Jordanian State Tourism Authority, hence we were able to go into areas which are considered out of bounds to tourist. At times the running route was patrolled by the Tourism Police in their dune buggy. We also had the chance to see how the Bedouins live and we got up close to camels.
After 9 hours plus, I managed to limp across the line…it was a tough day, nothing I have ever experienced in my races before. It had all the ingredients – very sandy terrain, heat in excess of 40-degree Celcius, elevation and dry arid conditions. I lived to tell the story. Next up, Stage 3….
