Chardonnay certainly had its day, but by the end of the 1980s, many wine connoisseurs were crying out for any wine other than Chardonnay. Big, oaky Chardonnays had become the norm before consumers began switching to fresher, easy-drinking, fruity and aromatic wines like Sauvignon Blanc. Of course, diehard Chardonnay aficionados never lost their faith as winemakers tweaked their blends to less oak-driven Chardonnays. Chardonnay remains one of the best-known white grape varieties, appreciated by wine lovers around the world. It is one of the world’s most widely grown white grape varieties and the white wine preferred by many; it really is the leader of the pack.
Chardonnay is also one of the world’s most widely planted white grape varieties, with global planting estimated to be over 200,000 hectares. It thrives in a diverse range of climates, from cool regions such as Chablis in France to warmer areas like California’s Central Valley. The variety is particularly popular with viticulturists due to its adaptability, allowing it to express regional variation.
In Australia, particularly in regions such as Margaret River and the Yarra Valley, Chardonnay is highly regarded for balanced, refined expressions. Elsewhere in the New World of wines, New Zealand, Chile, South Africa, and Argentina have established strong reputations for quality Chardonnay.
Although Chardonnay is universally recognised under this name, some wine regions have historical or local synonyms. In parts of France, particularly in Burgundy, it was historically referred to as Beaunois. In Italy, it is sometimes called Pinot Chardonnay, although this name has largely fallen out of use. In Austria, some producers use the name Morillon or Weisser Burgunder, while in neighbouring Switzerland, Charmont or Doral may be used for a Chardonnay wine.
The vinification of Chardonnay varies widely, leading to an extensive spectrum of styles. It can be produced as a crisp, unoaked wine with high acidity, as appreciated in Chablis, or as a rich, buttery wine aged in oak barrels, a style commonly associated with Californian and Australian Chardonnays. Malolactic fermentation, which converts tart malic acid into softer lactic acid, is often used to impart a creamy texture, while lees stirring (batonnage) can enhance a Chardonnay’s taste and complexity.
Sparkling wines such as Champagne also utilise Chardonnay, either in a blend or as a Blanc de Blancs, a style made exclusively from white grapes (that is, without Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier).
Chardonnay’s versatility makes it a very food-friendly wine. Unoaked or lightly oaked styles pair well with seafood, particularly shellfish, as the wine’s acidity complements the delicate flavours. Richer, oak-aged versions work well with creamy dishes, such as poultry in a butter or mushroom sauce, or risottos. Hard cheeses like Comté and Gruyère also pair well.
Chardonnay’s global success is a testament to its versatility in both vinification and food pairing. With a presence in nearly every major wine-producing country, its diversity of expression ensures that it remains one of the world’s most widely consumed white wines. Here are four Chardonnays that we enjoyed at a recent tasting.
Maison Castel Limited Series Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons
France remains the benchmark producer of Chardonnay, particularly in Burgundy, Champagne and Languedoc. In Burgundy, expressions range from the steely, mineral-driven wines of Chablis to the full-bodied, oakinfluenced wines of Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet. Known as White Burgundy in France, Chardonnay requires a little more of a developed understanding to appreciate them compared to the easier-drinking styles from New World wine-producing nations like Australia and California. When a French wine is labelled Chablis Premier (1er) Cru, it means the wine is of very high quality (only Grand Crus labelled wines are higher). Chablis is a specific district within the Burgundy winegrowing region. The wines of Chablis are characterised by salty tang, their purity, crystalline appearance, and floral notes, along with aromas of citrus and white-fleshed fruit. It also has a minerality derived from the limestone soils. This Chardonnay from the House of Castel falls under the 1er Cru Vaillons Contrôlée appellation. This all means that Vaillons (a small number of vineyards located to the southwest of Chablis town) produces high-quality Chardonnay wines that are guaranteed by strictly enforced guidelines. We enjoyed this wine’s aromas of lemon and green apples that combine well with floral and flinty notes. It is a very elegant wine best reserved for a special meal and perfect to accompany roast poultry such as Christmas turkey.
Castiglion Del Bosco Chardonnay
The minute you pour this wine, its citrus fruit aromas of lemon and a hint of grapefruit are immediately evident. Smell some more, and there’s an indication of almond too. Many will detect a taste of peach and pear lingering longer on the taste buds. This white wine is vinified near Montalcino from grapes sourced, not from a specific location, but from across Tuscany, hence the IGT on the label (Indicazione Geografica Tipica). With its rolling hills carpeted in vineyards, fortress-topped hilltops, medieval hamlets and ancient villages, fabulous food, and of course, acclaimed Brunello di Montalcino red wines, Tuscany is very much a hot tourist destination, and Castiglion Del Bosco is one of its many highlights. Castiglion Del Bosco is a 2,000-ha rural property developed by the couple behind the celebrated Ferragamo fashion label. The winery is adjoined by an exclusive golf course, 12th-century castle ruins and a prestigious Rosewood resort. This Chardonnay is elegantly sealed with a Vinotek glass stopper. The wine’s acidity cut through the spiciness of Malaysian dishes such as ikan bakar to make this barbecued fish taste even better.
Robert Mondavi Chardonnay
Outside France, the United States is a dominant Chardonnay producer, particularly in California, where regions like Napa Valley and Sonoma yield a variety of styles, from opulent, oak-aged wines to fresh, restrained versions from cooler coastal vineyards. The fruit for this Chardonnay is sourced from vineyards where warm days and cool nights provide ideal ripening conditions for grapes to develop bright, ripe fruit flavours and crisp acidity. The juice was cold-fermented in stainless steel to fully capture the grape’s fresh flavour. The blend also underwent malolactic fermentation, resulting in a rich, creamy mouthfeel. The wine was then aged for seven months in French oak. The result is a slight oakiness that provides an ever so slight buttery taste due to the oak mellowing the wine’s acidity. This Californian Chardonnay is golden straw in colour and opens with aromas of lime, pineapple and vanilla. A toasty oak contributes to a well-rounded wine with balanced acidity. The addition of a small amount of Viognier contributes floral aromas, peachy sweetness, and a fullbodied texture. In small amounts, Viognier enhances the aromatic profile of white blends, providing a captivating and aromatic lift. Enjoy this Chardonnay with poultry such as chicken cordon bleu, Hainanese chicken rice, fish, or creamy pasta dishes.
Penfolds Max’s Chardonnay
Penfolds doesn’t need too much introduction, with Malaysian wine connoisseurs as the wine enterprise has put in some hard marketing yards over the past few decades. While the silver wraparound packaging on this Adelaide Hill Chardonnay may not have universal appeal, the bottle sure stands out on the wine shop shelf (interestingly this silver packaging appears to be for the Asian market). Penfolds Max’s Chardonnay is a tribute to former Penfolds Chief Winemaker Max Schubert, an Australian wine legend. Max’s constant pursuit of excellence paved the way for the winemakers who followed and also allowed Penfolds to grow. Max’s Chardonnay continues the evolution of the Penfolds white wine programme, drawing inspiration from the legacy and spirit of the numerous wine trials Schubert conducted. This wine has aromas of peach, nectarine and citrus fruits. Upon further investigation, hints of floral notes of jasmine and rose petals become noticeable. Oak is also present (17% of the wine was matured in French oak barriques) to provide a nutty nuance. This results in a creaminess that lingers on the palate with a suggestion of flinty minerality. Enjoy this with chicken cooked in a creamy sauce, spicy pastas and grilled seafood.
