Western Australia’s southwest region basks in an invigorating Mediterranean climate and is closer to Asia than the nation’s most populous cities on Australia’s east coast. The Southern and Indian Oceans meet in the far southwest to play a role in moderating the summer temperatures. Despite its relative isolation, the state capital of Perth is a very modern and cosmopolitan city.
Travelling with two golf buddies, we flew into Perth on AirAsia X (although these flights are now being handled by AirAsia) and spent a few days there before setting off to the southwest on a journey of discovery with a twist. We knew of Australia’s great outdoors, open Aerial Albany Golf Club spaces, and natural places, and that Western Australia was one of the most sparsely populated parts of the world, so we thought it would be an adventure to explore this part of Australia using a recreational vehicle.
Our research suggested a Star RV Polaris 6 was the vehicle for us, as its interior could be converted into three double beds. The vehicle can accommodate six, but we thought that it was perfect for three friends and their golf equipment. The fully equipped kitchen, including stove, oven, and sizeable fridge meant that we could prepare meals and then enjoy them dining indoors or outside underneath an extendable awning.
Well-established camping grounds are available all over the southwest of Western Australia with modest nightly rates. There are many advantages to travelling with a campervan, with the best being that they offer excellent value for money through savings on accommodation and dining out.
WIDE OPEN ROADS
Heading out of Perth, we realised just how remote Western Australia is; the helpful assistant at Star RV told us that the next city of any size was Adelaide in neighbouring South Australia, 2,100 km away to the east. While the highway traffic south of Perth was busy, it soon thinned out, and the road conditions were perfect for us to acclimatise to our mobile Star RV.
Our travel itinerary to the southwest included vineyards, natural sites, beaches, forests, and a round of golf in several iconic settings. Our route included Frankland River, Mount Barker, Porongurup, and Albany, while the return leg back to Perth was via Walpole, Pemberton, Augusta, and Margaret River, which made for a wonderful circular route with no backtracking.
GREAT SOUTHERN WINERIES
There were many great reasons apart from the golf for making this trip, with wine, food, and sightseeing being the main ones. The road south to Albany passes through rural landscapes, with the first reason for wine lovers to stop being several estates in Frankland River and Mount Barker.
The Great Southern wine region includes the sub-regions of Mount Barker, Albany, Frankland River, Denmark (the town, not the country), and Porongurup. Each one has a unique microclimate, which determines the grape varieties that are planted and the wine styles produced. Its coastal parts are tempered by maritime conditions, especially cool breezes that blow in from the Southern Ocean. Frankland River is one of the remotest wine districts in the southwest, but it is well worth deviating from the main road to enjoy the wines of Ferngrove, Alkoomi, and Frankland Estate.
The Porongurup subregion is home to a handful of wineries that produce cool-climate wines. Located on the alternative route to Albany, the wineries here, such as Castle Rock Estate, produce iconic Pinot Noir and Riesling wines.
LINK TO THE LANDSCAPE
Albany is a leisurely five-hour drive south of Perth, but we were pleasantly surprised with the range of indulgent experiences available in this pristine, remote, and picturesque part of Australia.
The Albany Golf Club, located along a picturesque stretch of Middleton Beach, is considered one of the world’s best-kept links course secrets. This dramatically rugged and picturesque 18-hole course is also the state’s oldest, and its rolling dunes and blustery breezes ensure that no two games here are the same. The rolling dunes and coastal vegetation were left undisturbed to ensure a true links setting. Club members debate the best holes on the par 72, 6,068-m course, but three holes feature prominently: the 11th (472 m, par five), 12th (342 m, par four), and 13th (400 m, par four). While most of the greens are small, they’re fast and difficult to judge in the early part of your game. Clubhouse facilities are superb, and the members are most welcoming.
Albany once had a thriving whaling industry, and between July and November, it’s possible to see pods of majestic Southern Right Whales off the coast. The awardwinning museum, Whaleworld, is dedicated to the former industry. Closer to town, the National Anzac Centre is a memorial to troops who headed off from Albany to Europe to fight in World War I.
While Albany isn’t a large city, there are a few excellent dining prospects with local produce including fish such as King George Whiting, rock oysters and marron (freshwater crayfish). Visitors who are in Albany on a Saturday can purchase a range of fresh produce on offer at the Albany Farmers Market. While it’s compact, an excellent selection of regional produce is available.
Something not to be missed in Albany is the Great Southern Distilling Company, which produces spirits and single malt whiskies bottled under labels such as Limeburners and Giniversity. Under the Limeburners label, the Darkest Winter Cask Strength single malt whisky will impress with its 60% ABV intensity (and its high price). The distillery also produces and sells absinthe, vodkas, liqueurs, gin, and brandy and have an outlet in Margaret River, as well.
NATURE ESCAPES
Our drive from Albany to Pemberton took in several natural features that were well worth deviating from the main road. This included Greens Pool, one of the world’s most scenic beaches, located just west of Denmark along the road to Walpole. The facilities onboard our Star RV meant that we could rest in the carpark, pull out the van’s awning, and have lunch in the beach’s scenic surroundings.
Vast areas of the southwest are carpeted in majestic eucalyptus forests, which are home to species with delightful local names such as Tingle, Karri, Jarrah and Tuart. The Tree Top Walk in the Valley of the Giants offers a most thrilling adventure. Located in the Walpole Wilderness, the impressive 600 m-long walkway situated 40 m above the forest floor provides a unique insight on the forest. Further on, the town of Pemberton was once famous as a timber town, but it, and the region, are now more tourism oriented. We drove to the Truffle and Wine Company in nearby Manjimup to discover it is one of the world’s largest exporters of black Perigord truffles.
AUGUSTA GOLF COURSE
While not to be confused with the famous course in the USA, the Augusta Golf Club in the far southwest corner of Western Australia is another course we played. This windswept course offers golfers the challenge of breezes one season from the Indian Ocean and the next season, from the Southern Ocean.
The course carves its way through a forest dominated by peppermint and grass trees, and the hillocks and swales remain mostly untouched. The layout is different from what most expect, and it ranked as Western Australia’s number one sand greens course. This par 72 course of 5,837 m features 10 holes with significant doglegs, and half a dozen holes play into stiff breezes. The 351-m 17th and the 142-m 18th are the two standout holes here. An enthusiastic band of volunteers maintains the course and is more than pleased to welcome golfers from other clubs.
MARGARET RIVER
The Margaret River Golf Course is situated in the heart of the famous wine region only minutes from beautiful beaches, towering eucalyptus forests and rolling farmland. This 6,092-m, par 72 course is one of the state’s most highly regarded country courses.
It’s a private club, but visitors are most welcome to play here. Golfers enjoy abundant flora and fauna, including magnificent local Karri, Jarrah and Marri trees, while the last five holes have spectacular views of the rolling countryside and vineyards. Although not heavily bunkered, the course features numerous water hazards, mostly on the front nine, while the back nine requires careful ball placement due to the undulating fairways and large trees. Clubs, buggies and carts are available at the on-course golf shop.
After several nights of sleeping in our Star RV, we chose to splurge on a room at The Grand Mercure Basildene Manor, part of Accor Vacation Club. It is located near the golf course and close to the heart of Margaret River, one of Australia’s premium wine-producing regions. The original stone building of this elegant country retreat was built in 1912 and is set amongst extensive and meticulously manicured gardens. It is very much a boutique property with just 19 rooms offered in the beautiful old manor building or the newer section at the rear of the original house.
Despite the region’s small vineyard acreage (just 4% of Australia’s vineyards), it wins some 20% of national wine show awards. As such, Margaret River is regarded as a premium wine region, and Basildene Manor is located close to many highly rated wineries such as Leeuwin Estate, Cullen, Pierro, Voyager Estate, Cape Mentelle, and Evans and Tate. Naturally, we explored these after our round of golf.
We also dined in de’sendent, a restaurant that we were told had just received recognition as Western Australia’s ‘New Restaurant of the Year’ in the acclaimed Good Food Guide Awards. Here, flavour is all-important, with diners enjoying premium local ingredients such as abalone, Wagyu beef, marron, and sea urchin. The recommendation here is to choose the exclusive chef’s selection, which features ‘all the best bits’ of the already high-end menu. The wine list is just as impressive, with the finest from the region plus several global wines for comparison.
COASTAL DUNSBOROUGH
The Margaret River region extends northward to coastal resort towns like Dunsborough. After visiting Pierro and Evans and Tate wineries we drove to the seaside town to stay overnight in Club Wyndham Dunsborough. While a membership club property, rooms are available to non-members who can enjoy facilities along the near-deserted beach and dine on hearty fare at Toby’s Restaurant.
The resort is also close to Dunsborough Lakes Golf Club, an 18-hole championship course that tests golfers with its strategic layout and natural beauty. The 6,116 m, par 72 course is defined by its integration of water hazards, with 11 lakes influencing play across multiple holes. Notably, the parfour 16th hole demands precision off the tee, with a large lake running along the right side and a bunker on the left, requiring careful shot placement. The course’s flat terrain and gentle fairway undulations create a links-style feel, while the presence of native birdlife adds to its serenity, indeed a hallmark of this part of Western Australia.
TRAVEL FILE
Getting There and About
There are direct flights on AirAsia from Kuala Lumpur to Perth. A rental vehicle is essential for golfing and wine touring through the southwest, and we were delighted with our Star RV Polaris 6 campervan (starrv.com.au).
Accommodation
Club Wyndham Dunsborough (clubwyndhamsp.com) and Grand Mercure Basildene Manor Accor Vacation Club (basildenemanor.com.au).
Contacts
Albany Golf Club (albanygolfclub.com.au), Dunsborough Lakes Golf Club (dlgc.com.au), and Augusta Golf Club (augustagolfclub.com.au).
