Golfers understand that playing 18 holes while travelling is always most welcome, but it isn’t the only reason we travel. It was the Rainforest World Music Festival in June that captured the attention of some friends, who coincidentally happened to enjoy a round or two of golf. If the truth be known, it was the appearance of Earth, Wind, and Fire (by Al McKay) that was the motivation for our return visit to the East Malaysian state.
While Sarawak isn’t a destination best known for its beaches, they do exist, with Damai being the most accessible to Kuching. From the hotels located near the banks of the Sarawak River in Kuching, Mount Santubong dominates the horizon at a height of 810 m, and just on the other side of this landmark peak is the beachside destination of Damai.
STAYING MOBILE
With plans for our group of seven to play a few golf courses over several days, a decision needed to be made about efficiently getting about with all our clubs and luggage. A brilliant plan was hatched to obtain the services of a minibus that we could drive using a normal license and not have to bother about requiring two vehicles every time we relocated. Plus, it meant that we could travel as and when we required at any time of the day or night.
Detailed research revealed that a CAM minibus that could accommodate 20 passengers appeared perfect for the group. This setup was ideal, giving each of us two seats and plenty of space for clubs and luggage in the back row of seats and modestly sized luggage bay.
While we explored the main tourist sights of Kuching on foot from the Pullman Kuching, the minibus was perfect for travelling to Damai and our three golf sites. Kuching always impresses, with the tree-lined waterfront being one of Malaysia’s finest public spaces. While it’s always pleasant to hire a small boat to tour the river, walking along the shaded stretch is most comfortable, too. New attractions are always appearing, with sights such as the tallest flagpole in Southeast Asia guarding the uniquely shaped state legislative building and the ready-to-open Brooke Dockyard as a maritime museum.
In 2021, Kuching became a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy, and we did our best to discover its many treats. One of our great discoveries was Izzy’s, with its contemporary interpretations of some classic Sarawak dishes. Bidin (a local fern), Sarawak laksa, kolo mee, and nasi lemak were all sampled.
A most inviting wine list accompanied the food, and we were very surprised to see some old vintages, including a 2010 Mischa’s Riesling from Central Otago in New Zealand’s South Island. We assumed that wines of this pedigree were surely those from the owner, Thomas Yii’s personal cellar. We were pleased that a little Riesling remained in the bottle when the millefeuille Sarawak dessert was served. Created by the owner’s daughter Isabella, this pandan diplomat and house-made puff pastry topped with gula apong ice cream and coconut dessert, was stimulating to the eye and the palate. Perfection on a plate. Izzy’s is the non-halal version of Tom’s Restaurant, located just two doors down.
KELAB GOLF SARAWAK
Kelab Golf Sarawak (KGS, or Sarawak Golf Club) has many endearing features, especially as it is situated just on the outskirts of Kuching on the way to Damai Beach. This wasn’t our first time on the welcoming course, which opened in March 1985 with nine holes. By 1987, 18 holes (the Santubong and the Matang nines) were completed and ready to play. Not long after, Australian golf architect Nigel Douglas redeveloped and upgraded the Santubong and Matang nines to a course that satisfied demanding international standards. Its second 18-hole layout, incorporating the Siol and Demak nines, was added in 1989.
The par 72, Santubong and Matang nines make up the championship course of 6,394 m. It is demanding in several ways due to strategically placed hazards that require ball-striking skills. The third hole is one of the most challenging, as the green is well-guarded by bunkers and water both at the front and rear of the putting area. The fourth hole, with its dogleg fairway lined by water down the right side, is the other hole that demands accuracy.
COVE 55 AND MATANG
If the budget permits and you book sufficiently early, Cove 55 is the preferred place to stay near Damai, as it offers 28 premium, boutique rooms and villas, coastal views, an excellent restaurant, and an expansive infinity-edge swimming pool. The former retreat of a local Iban family has extensive lawns with gardens lush with tropical plants and flowers. I especially admired a patch of ginger flowers flourishing in the shade of some casuarinas and then took photos of an intriguing sea grape plant that I had never seen before.
A bonus for us was access to the exclusive, nine-hole Matang Jungle Golf Course. One of Malaysia’s best-kept golfing secrets, located opposite the entrance to Kubah National Park, is the private ninehole golf course, which may only be played by four Cove 55 guests at any one time.
Resort guests can also dine in nearby seafood restaurants at Kampung Buntul, located just a short drive from the resort. Staff also arranged for us to cruise down the Santubong River to see Irrawaddy Dolphins just breaching the water surface. We also extended this journey out to Pulau Salang Besar, where the beautifully clear waters need to be seen to be believed. A turtle hatchery here is making a valuable contribution to the survival of these majestic sea creatures.
DAMAI BEACH
Having been here several times before, I knew the Mount Santubong-dominated coastal strip was home to the Arnold Palmer-designed Damai Golf and Country Club. Damai Golf offers an opportunity to accept the challenge of playing a course with invigorating views of the Sarawak coastline and distant mountainous peaks.
The course was designed by the legendary Arnold Palmer, who described it as ‘the finest test of golf with the most dramatic setting of all in Malaysia. This is a must-play course for those who love golf.’ The layout comprises two distinctive nines in the Ocean nine and the Mountain nine.
This layout of the 18-hole par 72 course follows the contour of the land with holes adjoining sandy beaches, mangrove-lined streams and some that play into the foothills of Mount Santubong.
We especially liked playing the 16th and 17th holes lined with whispering casuarina trees along the fairways that adjoin the South China Sea. The breezes, soothing vistas and a revitalising sunset provided the essential ingredients for a successful round.
RAINFOREST MUSIC VILLAGE
The Cultural Village is the venue for the annual Rainforest World Music Festival. The festival site sprawls over a large expanse of landscaped gardens that extend to the base of Mount Santubong.
Here, seven of Sarawak’s main ethnic communities are showcased in a setting that appears to be the appropriate one for many of the upriver ethnic groups. Visitors can admire the villagers at work, such as making intricate bead jewellery, carving wood (there is a huge carved wooden ‘totem’ pole in the centre of the village), weaving the uniquely Bornean pua kumba cloth and making baskets. Cooking displays are conducted, and food is also sold in some of these communities.
During the music festival, many of these activities stop as musical workshops are staged in these traditional houses. We booked a ticket for the Saturday night of the festival so that we could capture the excitement the many fascinating local and global acts. With Earth, Wind, and Fire now headed up by guitarist and lyricist Al McKay, the band played hits like After the Love Has Gone, September, and Got to Get You into My Life. We sang our hearts out along with the thousands of other devotees, and in the wee hours of the morning, we headed back to Cove 55.
The festival rounded out another very pleasant visit to Sarawak that combined three courses with the finest that the East Malaysian state has to offer.
TRAVEL FILE
Getting There
Malaysia Airlines has several daily flights from Kuala Lumpur to Kuching, and the flight takes 90 minutes. Damai Peninsula juts out into the South China Sea just an hour’s drive from Kuching International Airport.
Where to Stay
Pullman Kuching (allaccor.com) and Cove 55 (cove55.com).
